zork
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Posts: 8
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Post by zork on Mar 24, 2006 8:37:00 GMT -5
Does anyone has good tips good back cast? My back cast is weak and unable to shoot much line as compared to my forward cast. What could be my problem?
Thanks.
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Post by sportfisher on Mar 24, 2006 11:10:09 GMT -5
I know we all call it the back cast but it is actually an upward cast its the bend in the rod that is important.The loop on the back cast starts to take flight at the rod straight position as we stop it, the rod then unbends(rebounds) if we have done the correct upward movement the rod tip will almost be pointing in the direction we want the line to travel as it unbends and will form a tight loop.(the power application is in the correct place)
However if we try to cast backward as the rod unbends it sends the line downward and opens up the loop causing all sorts of problems.
Make sure you are casting upwards to an abrupt stop and you must control the rod at your forearm as it provides the direction and the wrist applies the speed.
I often practice releaseing the line on the back cast to see the result its the quickest way to learn.It is possible to cast as far on the back as it is on the front with practice.
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Post by Herve on Mar 27, 2006 4:56:04 GMT -5
Hello everybody (It's my first time here, I'm French and english is not my mother tongue, so please do not be too hard!) I know we all call it the back cast but it is actually an upward cast its the bend in the rod that is important.The loop on the back cast starts to take flight at the rod straight position as we stop it, the rod then unbends(rebounds) if we have done the correct upward movement the rod tip will almost be pointing in the direction we want the line to travel as it unbends and will form a tight loop.(the power application is in the correct place) Thanks for the advice, dear Sportfisher. So I'll try to think upwards rather than backwards. I too have improvements to make to my backcast and I am looking for a tip as to have a "mental comparison" for the stop on the backcast. Let me explain : For the forward cast my mental comparison is to do as if I was throwing a dart, or knocking at a door, or hammering a nail on a wall in from of me... I guess all these come from Mel Krieger's The Essence of Flycasting - excellent. I cannot find a mental comparison for the backward cast. ... Anybody ? Thanks, Hervé (from Lyon, France) |
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zork
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Posts: 8
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Post by zork on Mar 27, 2006 9:28:11 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips, Sportfisher. I tried to do upward cast, it works for me if the line that I carry is short (30-40ft). However, if the line is longer then I will have problem with it. I guess I still need to work on it.
I share the same sentiment as Herve, it would be great if there is a similar technique as Mel Krieger's "pull" forward cast.
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Post by andrew toft on Mar 28, 2006 17:35:17 GMT -5
If you imagine a high wall just one step behind you and you want to cast your line up and over it.
If you stop the rod to late you will hit it.
Remember it is the forearm that provides the smooth upward movement and the wrist applies the speed at the end.
If you are finding problems with 30/40 feet of line.
It is around here on most wf lines that the back taper is and you might be hingeing on the thin line.This is when effective double hauling is a great help but that is another subject.
smmooth smooth lead then speed up and stop always
Dont cast harder cast smarter.
Andrew
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Post by 3lbgrayling on Mar 29, 2006 1:48:08 GMT -5
nice explanation andy.
jim
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zork
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by zork on Mar 29, 2006 2:47:38 GMT -5
I think I am quite OK with 30-40ft of line. The proroblem is after the forward cast of 1st false cast during which I have shot some line and practically carry about 50 ft line now.
Even though I manage to keep the line straight and horizontal to the ground, I can feel that it is simply not enough momemtum to shoot the line thus preventing me from achieving a longer distance.
Currently, I can only manage to cast around 70ft of line (with 1 false cast). I believe once I fixed my backcast, I should be able to go much farther.
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Post by 3lbgrayling on Mar 29, 2006 3:39:00 GMT -5
i would say that over 20yds with 1 false cast is pretty good .  jim |
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Post by Herve on Mar 29, 2006 5:45:34 GMT -5
If you imagine a high wall just one step behind you and you want to cast your line up and over it. If you stop the rod to late you will hit it. Remember it is the forearm that provides the smooth upward movement and the wrist applies the speed at the end. Thanks again for the advice, Andrew, I am impatient to try it ! Remember it is the forearm that provides the smooth upward movement and the wrist applies the speed at the end. Oh, actually I did think the wrist had to stay stiff, so as to prevent the rod from leaning over backwards ans openind the loop and having your line touch the ground. But I'm always ready to question what I've learned, so I'm listening carefully to what you say. I find it quite easy to use the wrist when casting ahead of me, since the wrist movement on the power snap is stopped by the flexibility of the wrist (I mean, I cannot make the wrist bend any further). It is very different with the backcast : I tend to keep my wrist stuck in the same position. Is there a trick for keeping the correct position? Herve |
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zork
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Posts: 8
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Post by zork on Mar 29, 2006 10:48:36 GMT -5
i would say that over 20yds with 1 false cast is pretty good . jim I must clarify that this is the best distance I can achieve under ideal situation: no wind and no fly ties to the line... I am stuck at this distance for now...hopefully I can go another few feet further..after I improved my back cast.  |
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Post by andrew toft on Mar 29, 2006 11:30:07 GMT -5
When you are carrying a lot of line in the air tension is very important,be sure you are not bringing your line hand up to quickly this results in a loss of tension in the lower leg of the loop causing the front end of the line to lose speed and colapse you must feed the line back as the line unrolls.
It is very difficult to say exactly as many different things apply.ie
Loop shape
DRIFT(could be too early)
length of stroke
rod ark,timing etc
tracking
Only add distance to your cast when you are confident
and everything feels right.
Wrist movement/I did say wrist movement provides the speed but this is only minimal movement this is the important thing dont let your rod come out more than a couple of inches from your foararm before the stop.
I know you see people who drift way back for maximum distance/stroke length but they still have to obey the principles of casting and stop the rod in the correct place beforehand it is the distance between the speed up and stopsof the rod tip that form the loop shape LONG speed up and stop large loop SHORT speed up and stop smaller loop.
Remember the rod tip reaches maximum speed as it straightens so should the smooth pull with the hauling hand.
Im off to practice.
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Post by fbsdsd on Apr 9, 2006 10:04:13 GMT -5
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zork
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by zork on Apr 10, 2006 5:18:01 GMT -5
When you are carrying a lot of line in the air tension is very important,be sure you are not bringing your line hand up to quickly this results in a loss of tension in the lower leg of the loop causing the front end of the line to lose speed and colapse you must feed the line back as the line unrolls. It is very difficult to say exactly as many different things apply.ie Loop shape DRIFT(could be too early) length of stroke rod ark,timing etc tracking Only add distance to your cast when you are confident and everything feels right. Wrist movement/I did say wrist movement provides the speed but this is only minimal movement this is the important thing dont let your rod come out more than a couple of inches from your foararm before the stop. I know you see people who drift way back for maximum distance/stroke length but they still have to obey the principles of casting and stop the rod in the correct place beforehand it is the distance between the speed up and stopsof the rod tip that form the loop shape LONG speed up and stop large loop SHORT speed up and stop smaller loop. Remember the rod tip reaches maximum speed as it straightens so should the smooth pull with the hauling hand. Im off to practice. You have accurately pointed out some of my bad habits, I raised the line hand too early and also started the "drift" a little too soon. Since reading your feedback, I have deliberately correct these faults. However, by stoping the abrupt rod stop during the backcast causes another problem, the sudden stop occasionally resulted the (end of) line smash onto the rod or even my face or body. I guess it is about the timing, I am still working on it... Thanks.. |
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Post by qqq on Apr 27, 2006 19:11:00 GMT -5
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Post by dumpy on Apr 28, 2006 1:05:00 GMT -5
WTF are these guest up to
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