|
|
Post by Chris on Nov 24, 2004 1:04:40 GMT -5
A while back I built a rod. A couple of years on and the blank itself seems to have some movement in the handle. What is the best way to fix this. I asked Adz about this at the weekend and he mentioned a couple of ideas. Has this happened to anyone before and how did you fix it?
Chris
|
|
PeteH
Full Member
Posts: 164
|
Post by PeteH on Nov 25, 2004 8:00:35 GMT -5
Chris
It may be that you have gaps beneath the handle if the original fit wasn't tight enough. I would consider fitting a new handle. This means removing the rings of course so that you can slide a new handle on. If you've used epoxy on the whippings they can be a real pain to remove. Anyone have any tips on removing epoxy?
Pete
|
|
|
|
Post by ScottRods on Nov 25, 2004 12:21:13 GMT -5
Removing epoxy.
Get a new stanlry knife blade and cut along the foot of the guides to cut through the finish and the whippings. This way you don't cut the blank.
Then with a razor blade or a scalpel blade, gently cut off little slivers of finish still attached to the blank.
Figure an hour easy per guide to remove with proper care.
Cutting the cork off is much harder, I tried it twice and in reality, if part of it is stuck well and part isn't your in trouble as the epoxy is probably very well bonded to the blank in some areas and you risk damaging the blank. The reel seat is probably well fixed to it.
I'd reccomend trying a syringe with a large bore needle and trying to squeeze epoxy into the gap.
I used to use round rat tail files to shape the inner bore of my cork to the blank. But it took ages and I ended up with a inner bore bigger at the top and bottom but tight in the middle - which is maybe causing what you describe. Then I bought tapered cutters. These are basically lengths of old blanks coated in various degrees of coarseness grit. I use these to shape roughly the inner hole then smooth off the inner bore with the round files.
Always keep test fitting. Finish off by using an old piece of sandpaper to gently roughen the blank surface in the area to fit the grip so that it gives a key for the epoxy to stick to.
|
|
Hove
Full Member
Brecon Beacons Valley Streams
Posts: 145
|
Post by Hove on Nov 27, 2004 4:28:18 GMT -5
Chris, Ive also read of folk using the syring method before, with good results.... Like Scottrods says, If youre putting a new grip on, removing the old cork can me a right pain... If youre rod has maybe a removable fighting butt or somehow you can expose the butt end of the blank, you can take an electrick hand drill that turns at a good speed , maybe 2000-2500 rpm, secure it with jubilee cramps to the edge of a bench, and insert a drill bit that is a fair bit smaller than the inner diameter of the Blanks butt into the drill and build up the size of the bit in sections with light gaps with a tough 1/4" masking tape untill it fits and tapers snugly into the rod butt.. Ive done all this with the drill sat in my lap.. Working with longer but sections you may want to have that drill secure and blank supported as above.. Get someone to support the other end of rod on an even keel (be sure to keep rod section inline other wise nasty cracking things things will obviously occur).. Whap the drill on and sand away that cork with a good corse grit sandpaper... You could go to finer paper on the last remainig 8th or so or cork perhaps, just to start getting a clener job and a precuationary or not starting to dig into the blanks raw material... This all takes no time at all really to do If youre rod has no exposed butt have a good sharp blade to hand  Hope that is some use mayte  Cheers Hove |
|
|
|
Post by SDHflyfisher on Dec 29, 2004 13:19:52 GMT -5
an easy way to remove epoxy and finish is to heat it up a bit and it softens and that makes it easier to remove
|
|
Robin
Full Member
Posts: 221
|
Post by Robin on Jan 3, 2005 18:05:53 GMT -5
Remove the corks with a stanley knife and scalpel,reduce whats left to concentricity,this takes time,but if you put the rod under your arm and the end over a nail in the wall you can turn it down with a strip of glasspaper, it works.
Then you measure the diameter of whats left and enlarge the hole in the cork so it fits reasonably tightly.
Then split the cork once only so it goes over the rod and test.
do this with all of them.
When done you goop them all on with slow araldite and bind them down tight with some good string,garden twine works.
Then you put the rod back under your arm and turn down the handle.
you can produce handles that are indistinguishable from those made on a lathe like this.
R
|
|
|
|
Post by bloke on Jan 7, 2005 11:53:10 GMT -5
Chris.
Good to meet you yesterday, next time would you help me out with the vino, my head hurt this morning !!
Try soaking the grip in boiling water both the reel seat and cork should come off with ease.
Cheers
Mick
|
|
