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Post by grumpalump on Dec 30, 2005 16:37:00 GMT -5
A few (!) years ago, I bought a stripped Hardy greenheart blank, intending to ring it up as a "winter evenings" project. I've just had a look at it, and there are a couple of mild sets in the tips. Not panic-inducing, but not impressive. Does anyone know if it's possible to straighten greenheart?
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Post by highlander on Dec 30, 2005 17:35:17 GMT -5
Two things I would do if it was mine.
1. Rering with rings "on top of the set".
If the original owner was right handed the set should be to the left & vice versa for a left handed fly fisher.
Extreme case I would either soak it in boiling water or use steam & them get two straight pieces of 1/4" thick wood & place joint between them & bind tight with string. Leave for a few weeks & check & redo.
I might point out I have never done it but if it was mine I would try what I have said.
Having said that once a set has taken place in wood it is easy enough to straighten but he is a sometime not long lasting till it takes a set again.
Tight lines
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Post by grumpalump on Dec 30, 2005 18:03:31 GMT -5
Thank you, Highlander, I'll probably try option 1 first - I'm a bit worried about losing the oil from the wood if I steam it.
A slight complication comes from the fact that I was advised to wipe the blank down with button polish before whipping the rings on. It was only this year that I actually found a bottle of button polish and discovered that it isn't Brasso, but a very thin varnish. If I put this on first then decide I need to steam it, I'm going to be fairly far up a famous creek, I suspect. Gently does it, I guess!
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Post by highlander on Dec 30, 2005 19:18:57 GMT -5
No problem but just a point to note Linseed Oil is a proscribed way of treating Greenheart wood to help stop it drying out. which is the main problem with old wood.especially if stored near heat for a prolonged period. I doubt if hot water or steam will effect this wood. After all it was used for pier piles for shipping. & although not subjected to extremes of hot it is impervious to water. Steaming should only help to make it supple.
Still err on caution
Tight Lines
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Post by finecanerods on Dec 31, 2005 6:34:10 GMT -5
Hi,
I would be disinclined to spend too much time and effort trying the straighten the section as it is more than likely that the set will return. The advice already rendered to whip the rings on the convex side of the bend should suffice.
A simple experiment may assist in your decision. Having determined the exact direction in which the section is bent apply pressure to bend it gently in the opposite direction, the same degree of bending you would expect the rod to cope with in service, no more! Hold the section in this position for say 30 seconds and then re sight along the length. If the set is gone or at least markedly reduced you can pretty much garrantee that your section will always be inclined to take a set.
You could of course take the occassionally proffered advice to rotate the rod whilst playing a fish. It does work but few have the peace of mind in the thick of battle.
BTW button polish is shellac flakes dissolved in alcohol and is used for french polishing. It is sometimes used as a sanding sealer but is not particularly waterproof so I am not sure what purpose it is to serve on a rod except perhaps to give some nominal protection whilst you work on it. Cane rod makers often give blanks a coat of tung oil for the same purpose.
Good luck
Gary
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Post by grumpalump on Dec 31, 2005 12:25:56 GMT -5
Thank you both - it appears to be an easily-set bit of wood - better that than a brittle one - I've given it a rub with linseed oil, so the die is cast. (It instantly began to look gorgeous). I guess I should repeat this till it doesn't absorb any more, then leave it to polymerise till I can't wipe any off, then whip the rings on and varnish the whippings only?
Gary, you've scared the carp (anag.) out of me - I "did up" a sad "Wizard" clone and used "Tung and Phenolic" exterior picture varnish on it. I shall be watching it like a paranoid hawk from now on!
Cheers, and a Happy New Year to you both!
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Post by finecanerods on Dec 31, 2005 13:33:22 GMT -5
I'm not really sure why I worried you. I'm not familiar with the varnish you mention using on your Wizard clone but anything with tung in it is fairly durable. I would be happier using Tung oil than linseed oil on a rod although that will perform ok if you give a rub over every now and then.
The thing I am not sure about is the combination of shellac followed by oil. The shellac layer will reduce the absorbtion of the oil so it will really become a surface finish. Given the already limited durability of linseed you may find youself reaching for the oily rag more frequently.
Regards
Gary
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Post by grumpalump on Dec 31, 2005 14:21:37 GMT -5
That's a relief! - I've become quite fond of that rod.
Overcautious I may be, but I didn't put button polish on the greenheart blank because I didn't understand why, and only like taking advice I understand. So the linseed has been soaked up with apparent glee, and it already seems to want more!
I've little experience of greenheart, but was under the impression that if oiled, it didn't need varnish; indeed, that varnish wouldn't "take". I guess a varnish made for oil-paintings is going to have the best chance of sealing the whippings over oiled timber - we shall see!
Many thanks!
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Post by Silver Stoat on Dec 31, 2005 18:13:20 GMT -5
When you apply the linseed, after it has stood for an hour or so, wipe off the surplus and leave overnight before repeating.
After a few applications you will notice that no more will be absorbed and at this point give the wood a good polish with, ideally, a piece of soft leather or some coarse rag. If you can generate a little heat when rubbing it, so much the better but be careful not to use too much pressure which might bend or break the rod - it would be safest to lay the rod on a firm surface when doing this to avoid any chance of breaking it. Repeat the polishing for a couple of days and then leave the rod to dry for at least a week.
After this, if you wish to varnish it, use a good quality yacht varnish as this will be perfectly compatible with the dried linseed oil.
I would advise against using a polyurethane based varnish as this will not have very good intercoat adhesion.
Dave.
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Post by finecanerods on Dec 31, 2005 21:15:33 GMT -5
If you varnish use something like International Schooner which is a Tung oil based varnish and will work well over a hardened linseed oil base.
If you don't varnish you can expect some water marks but it will survive OK. Nothing wrong with an oil finished rod it just needs a bit more maintenance, the advantage is that the maintenance is easy and you don't suffer from chipping. A full rubbed oil finish is what is traditionally used on gun stocks.
Gary
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Post by b grantham on Jan 6, 2006 11:30:50 GMT -5
to straighten greenhart juat warm it with a heat gun dead easy done dozens goes as easy as bamboo
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