I saw some fly fishman who have 3 flies on their leader... i just wonder how to tie them on??? is it useful???? i ve been watched the web-site which is teaching how to tie different knots.. www.killroys.com/knots/knots.htm
but i still dont know which one can tie 3 flies on the leader .... Could anyone tell me about it??? really really thx.....
Post by 3lbgrayling on May 28, 2005 19:14:00 GMT -5
zac iwas hoping that somebody else would answer you.as im not really good at explaining myself,but i'll give it a go. as a beginner i dont think you should fish with 3 flies ,2 wil be plenty ,this will cut down on fankles (good scottish term for birdsnests) when you are going to tie your dropper(s) you need to tie the 3 turn water knot,looks like the surgeons knot in the website you are using but pass the ends through 1 more time,moisten and pull tight,cut off the nylon thats nearest to the flyline,and leave your dropper about 6 ins long.hope that helps forgot to say that you should have a gap of about 4ft between point fly and dropper
Post by fredaevans on May 29, 2005 11:37:35 GMT -5
Not sure I would (or even could) cast three dry's. That said a three fly 'rig' (wet) is quite common here on the upper Rogue River in Oregon.
Only a couple of things to keep in mind: 1) the first fly, in the string must be the heaviest, and get lighter as you move towards the end of the leader. If not the fly's will 'spir. up' the main leader (birds nest again!! as Jim notes above) ... NOT PRETTY, and darned near impossible to untangle.
2)Use 'main line' mono, not leader/tippet material to connect the fly's together. Leader material is too soft/limp to keep the fly's apart for more than a cast or two ... then we're back to Jim's 'bird nest.'
You may also want to 'tie' your 'gang of hooks' together by going 'eye' to 'eye' rather than hook bend to eye, etc. This allows the first two hooks to hang down as in the letter 'J." Very! effective for increasing your hookups. fae
Forgot to add: for more than two flies, I'd recommend a fairly 'fast action' rod such as (not a rod recommendation, just one you may know) as the Sage XP.
Last Edit: May 29, 2005 13:00:49 GMT -5 by fredaevans
Hmmm, not sure I agree with "fredaEvans" advice.I use the three turn water knot & put the heaviest fly on the point & work back with a lighter fly on each of the remaining two droppers, never have much problem with tangles & of course this helps the leader/tippet to straighten out.I totally disagree with his reccomendation of a fast actioned rod.You are far better off using a more "through" or soft actioned rod & opening up your casting loops.
Also not very good at explaining the technique. This is not the method I normally use myself but it is the simplest to explain. It works for nylon but I don't think that it would for fluoro.
If using a 10 foot rod take about 15 foot or so of nylon and make a double loop in your nylon with about 1 foot of the line about 9 - 10 feet from the end , moisten the knot and pull tight. You will then have a loop of about 1 foot. Cut the loop close to knot and you will have a dropper about 1 foot long. Attach your fly after shortening your dropper to your required length, normally 4 - 6 inches. Do the same for the middle dropper about halfway between your top dropper and point fly. Voila.
I used to use the 3 or 4 turn water knot as described above. I stopped using it when Berlin suggested the figure of 8. If you add a half hitch after tying the fig or 8, the dropper stands off the rest of the leader at right angles and the whole thing is much more reliable due to the fact that the fig of 8 weakens the line a lot less than the wtaer knot. It's easy to tie too.
Post by 3lbgrayling on May 30, 2005 4:14:54 GMT -5
hi clydesider,never heard of that variation before,any idea what % of breaking strain it runs at.as for describing a multi dropper cast for ZCC411.i thought it would be to difficult without diagrams,sorry zac.(a traditional 3 fly cast in scotland is 9ft long 1st dropper3ft from point fly.top dropper 3ft from end of the flyline.and this is used to fish rivers with the wet fly)
Carl says he thinks it's about 100% of the line breaking strain, but I'm not sure about that. My confidence in the knot comes from the fact that I've never been broken on it, and we all know how important confidence is
Post by 3lbgrayling on May 30, 2005 4:46:27 GMT -5
hi clydesider.had a look at the original thread.berlins diagram shows the half hitch tag being trimmed ? i take it you trim the other tag and fish the half hitch tag because it stands out from the leader.does this still run at 100%
The way I tie is is slightly different to Berlin's diagram. I tie a half hitch at both sides of the dropper knot and trim the top one. The half hitch at the bottom helps the dropper stand proud of the main leader. Never found it to be anything less than 100% reliable. Maybe that's because I like to play on the safe side with my breaking strains though. I left too many hooks in fishes' mouths in the early days when using water knots
Post by 3lbgrayling on May 30, 2005 5:49:10 GMT -5
hi clydesider am going to beecraigs for an evening session today,and will give it a go,nothing like a jumbo for testing out the weak links(i hope)will report back.though, i have to say i dont have any problems with the 3-4 turn w-knot.apart from dropper wrap ps.just had a thought,try the half hitch with the w-knot
I have been using the tiny (1.5 mm) silver rings to tie up my droppers and have found them much better, just tie them on using whatever knot you use for tying the fly on the leader and away you go. They seem to have reduced the amount of tangles I get and make it a lot easier to chop a dropper off and tie a new one on if you need to. They are very reliable, I landed 6 fish to 5lb at Grafham using them and had no breaks.
They area about £2.00 for 10, not cheap but worth it. Store them on a safety pin pinned to your waistcoat.