|
Post by The Handsome Stick on Feb 6, 2006 5:48:43 GMT -5
Here's one easy trick that almost guarantees improvement in your casting by ensuring your rod is properly loaded. With a permamnent black marker colour the section of line where the head tapers into the running line. Mark about four inches of the line. When you see the black mark in your rings, you know you have the full head of the line in the air and the ultimate rod load. You also know the maximum length of line that you can roll-cast (the head).
|
|
|
Post by welshy on Feb 6, 2006 6:04:09 GMT -5
Ok, so how far back from the tip is this change? thanks for the tip! Welshy
|
|
|
Post by Clydesider on Feb 6, 2006 6:14:29 GMT -5
The only thing about this is that everyone, and everyone's rod is different.
Some people might like a slower feel, and some a more tippy feel. What's optimum for one is not necessarily so for another.
Another thing is that you're limiting the range of casts and differences by aerialising a fixed amount of line every time. Good casters like to aerialise more than the head of the line in order to reach longer ranges and sometimes we need to aerialise only a couple of metres before delivering a short range cast.
It also goes without saying that your suggestion here only applies to WF lines.
|
|
|
Post by mattwright on Feb 6, 2006 6:20:52 GMT -5
If you mark the line at 30' then you know the correct point for WF or DT, Welshy. This helps you to judge optimum loading but is not meant to be a fixed length you always aerialise. Much beyond 30' will require some hauling.
|
|
|
Post by Clydesider on Feb 6, 2006 6:59:16 GMT -5
That's still not strictly true, Matt.
You see, rods aren't made with exact specifications. A rod rated for a 7WT line is only a suggestion by the person/people who rated it which says it feels nice to them with that line of it.
Someone else might prefer the feel of the rod with more line or less line aerialised. Then what about rods with 2, 3 or even 4 line weights on them? There's no way that 30ft of a #6 line and 30ft of a #8 line will both "optimally" load a rod rated at 6/7/8.
There's no black and white when it comes to rod ratings. Efforts to make it seem so are futile and counterproductive to the development of anyone trying to understand the subject.
|
|
|
Post by The Handsome Stick on Feb 6, 2006 10:41:30 GMT -5
Ok, so how far back from the tip is this change? thanks for the tip! Welshy It's about 30ft depending on the line. But the way to find it is by eye. You're looking for the point where the back of the head turns into a thin 'level' line. On some lines this is more apparant than others. As you get close to where you think the back of the head ends compare the widths of the time at ten inch intervals by holding them together. When it stops getting thinner, you know that you have reached the running line so work your way back. You want to mark the point just before it becomes level running line. I hope that makes sense.
|
|
|
Post by The Handsome Stick on Feb 6, 2006 10:50:34 GMT -5
That's still not strictly true, Matt. You see, rods aren't made with exact specifications. A rod rated for a 7WT line is only a suggestion by the person/people who rated it which says it feels nice to them with that line of it. Someone else might prefer the feel of the rod with more line or less line aerialised. Then what about rods with 2, 3 or even 4 line weights on them? There's no way that 30ft of a #6 line and 30ft of a #8 line will both "optimally" load a rod rated at 6/7/8. There's no black and white when it comes to rod ratings. Efforts to make it seem so are futile and counterproductive to the development of anyone trying to understand the subject. Yes and no. This certainly doesn't take into account inaccurate line or rod ratings so it may not be exact. But it will give you an approximately fully loaded rod. It also stops you trying to aerialise running line which is the kiss of death to most peoples loops. The full head of a 6# line 'should' optimally load a 6# rod. This is of course on paper. Some rods may load better with a 7# but that's not the point. It doesn't mean you always cast using this length but it is the sweet spot. As the road is fully loading it gives you, the caster, maximum feedback which will also help your casting and it lets you shoot a lot of line. The rod should really be working for you which in my opinion is one of the foundations of good casting.
|
|
|
Post by The Handsome Stick on Feb 6, 2006 10:59:24 GMT -5
There's no way that 30ft of a #6 line and 30ft of a #8 line will both "optimally" load a rod rated at 6/7/8. Multi-rated rods just give an idea of the lattitude of a rod. All rods will work with one line weight up or down, some rods will happily go 2 up. A 6/7/8 rod should be at is optimum with the 7# line at 30ft. the 6# will underline it slightly and the 8# will overline it slightly. But all three lines are very fishable with the rod. A lot of people prefer the feel of overlining as it slows the rod, loads it easier and gives more feedback. In fact overlining is also a great way to learn fly casting.
|
|
|
Post by fluffchukka on Feb 6, 2006 12:13:55 GMT -5
Another point about aerialising into the running line is that your fly line life will be greatly decreased.As false casting on the "thin" section murders it,also a nasty "hinging "effect can occur.Better to properly match line to rod.
|
|
|
Post by Philogic on Feb 8, 2006 17:41:49 GMT -5
Remember guys, the Shakespeare lines which loads of us bought from the P.P. have a total head length of 47 feet, thats from the start of the front taper 11 feet, 25 foot belly and rear taper of 11 feet. The 30 foot figure mentioned here only relates to the AFTM of the line. regards Phil
|
|
|
Post by The Handsome Stick on Feb 9, 2006 5:29:11 GMT -5
Remember guys, the Shakespeare lines which loads of us bought from the P.P. have a total head length of 47 feet, thats from the start of the front taper 11 feet, 25 foot belly and rear taper of 11 feet. The 30 foot figure mentioned here only relates to the AFTM of the line. regards Phil I think the 30ft is just a guiding figure, an average head length. With the Shakespeare line, or an other line, I think, the total head length should be the line rating. All a distance taper line is doing is extending the weights through a longer taper so that you can aerialise more. The AFTM rating is a bit of a mess really. To my understanding a 6# with a 20ft head or a 60ft head should have identical head weights. I think that's right anyway. Any other theories?
|
|
|
Post by rrw35 on Feb 9, 2006 7:52:03 GMT -5
Richard,
I think most WF lines are slightly longer than that...about 40ft for most head lengths.
If you are casting 90ft +, you need to be either controlling the overhang, or shooting line into the final backcast.
You are looking at a carry of about 70-80ft to go 90+, unless you are using a shooting head type line.
|
|
|
Post by Silver Stoat on Feb 12, 2006 13:54:31 GMT -5
Marking the line is a good idea but would it not be better to go out and find the 'sweet spot' by casting and then mark it. This would give the result you are after for any given combination of rod and line regardless of any unusual line taper.
Dave.
|
|
|
Post by patsolver on Feb 13, 2006 8:29:54 GMT -5
On lines which change colour such as Snowbee 2D where should the change of colour be for optimum performance by end ring or outside it.
On lines which change to a thin line should the change to thin be outside the end tip.
Excuse my ignorance !!
|
|
|
Post by patsolver on Feb 13, 2006 8:30:24 GMT -5
On lines which change colour such as Snowbee 2D where should the change of colour be for optimum performance by end ring or outside it.
On lines which change to a thin line should the change to thin be outside the end tip.
Excuse my ignorance !!
|
|