Wonder if I could pick your brains please on a Rod building question..?
My Dad is going to rebuild an old Rod from my Grandad. It is a very early wooden rod which my Dad feels is similar to an old rod he knew called a Green Heart.
He's not yet sure if it will be flexible enough for a fly rod or whether it will be for coarse fishing. Fly is the preference and hope. ( He does also have a nice new shakespeare fly rod but this is also a bit of sentimentalism )
Rod rings are bought and the project is about to get underway but we are not sure what to use to re-varnish the rod when it is finished.
Any suggestions please anybody?
I wondered about spray acrylic varnish used for model making or maybee acrylic based car spray paint lacquer. This said, I do think my Dad would rather not use a spray.
The Humbrol im guessing is an enamel which if it is I'm not sure how flexible that would be on a whole rod. What kind of epoxy if I may ask please? Is it like the epoxy cascamite used in resin bonding archery bows?
I think with this rod, the fact that its wooden and fairly old and also was originally varnished leads us to think that varnishing it as protection and sealant would be a good idea which is why we are thinking of doing more than just the whippings.
I suggest you use yacht varnish. I have always used this on any split/whole cane rods that I have rebuilt. Try to avoid anything with polyurethane in it. The best way of applying this is with your finger. That way you can apply nice smooth thin coats and avoid any runs. Avoid using any epoxy that is designed for whippings for finishing rod blanks. You will end up with a mess. You can get modern finishes for rod blanks but I think that several coats of yacht varnish would be rather more traditional and a lot cheaper!
Post by Silver Stoat on Jun 30, 2005 18:04:46 GMT -5
Alan has it right. You may need to thin the varnish a little although most yacht varnish I have used has been OK straight from the tin. Use a quality brand - some of the cheaper so called yacht varnish is polyurethane based and a poor substitute for the real thing. Don't be tempted to apply a thick coat in the hope that you will get the job done quicker, all that will happen is the surface will dry but the bulk of the coating beneath will remain soft. In the worst case this can cause the finish to wrinkle as the lower layer hardens and contracts over the months. Before you start it would be a good idea to carefully sand down the old varnish to provide a good key for the new. Apply three or four very thin coats of varnish using your fingers, as Alan suggested, and make sure each coat is dry before applying the next. Before the final coat you can give the rod a gentle rub down with 800 grade wet or dry paper to smooth out any 'nibs' where dust may have landed, but you have to do this with a light touch. I would give the finish at least three or four days extra drying before doing this.
Take your time and you will end up with a very good looking rod.
I hope I'm not too late. I've only just seen this thread. You should use copal oil varnish on greenheart. Put it on with a clean finger and you will need to build up about 6 coats. Copal oil varnish is flexible.
"I say Hargreaves! They seem to be takin' a siesta!" "I dessay they are sir! But anythin' with a bit of red in it will do just as well..."