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Sept 2, 2010, 5:26pm

Fly Fishing Forums :: Fly Fishing Forums :: Fly Tying - Step By Step :: Copper John

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Topic: Copper John (Read 10,534 times)

AlanB
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I was once told that salmon fishing is like sex. Well if it is I'm doing one of them wrong.

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Copper John
« Thread Started on Apr 10, 2006, 4:12am »

Copper John
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This is a quick sinking nymph that, these days, would be considered only lightly weighted. You can add lead foil or wire under the dressing if you would like it heavier. Another effective way to add more weight is to use a tungsten bead. You could even use both tungsten bead and lead for an extra heavy fly.
I fish this fly as single nymph often during flat calm conditions. Grease as long a leader as you can manage to within a foot (30 cm) of the fly and cast out. Watch the point where the leader cuts through the surface. It will track along the leader in a constant manor. Any variation strike!
You can use it as an anchor fly on the point of a team or in very small sizes as a nymph "dangled" below a dry. The photo above shows one tied on a size 12 for general fishing and one on an 18 for the "dangled" method.
[image]

The hooks I have tied these on are both described as "Dry Fly" hooks by the manufacturer. I don't care! I like these hooks for these nymphs so they are now nymph hooks. I think you will agree they are appropriate. Don't be constrained by things like Dry Fly hooks take them as advice not law.
This bead is on the large size for this hook so I have laid a bed that is thicker on top of the hook in order to lift the bead. Tie in any old bit of floss or mono or hackle stem and cut off tight to the whippings so that the bead will be lifted up when it is slipped over it. This will help you keep as much of the gap for hooking fish as possible.
[image]

Slip the bead onto the foundation. The original called for a copper coloured bead but I am using one of Dave Downie's Definite Advantage 3mm orange painted beads. Sexy or what? Restart the thread behind the bead. Thread colour really doesn't matter. You should not be able to see any of the thread when you finish the fly. Here I am using UTC 70 in grey. Best to use a thread that you can flatten like UTC as you will be forming an under body from the thread so one you can flatten is easier to work with.
[image]

Run the thread down to the start of the bend where you tie in the tail. You could use pheasant tail or wool but I am using dark brown biot points. If you are flash you can tie them both in at once but I find it easier to tie in the far side one first then match the near side one for length. Note the length, try not to make them too long. Better shorter than too long.
[image]

Tie in the biots so they curve away from each other.
[image]

Trim off the thick ends of the biots. Trim them at an angle and uneven so that the under body will be smoother.
[image]

Tie in the wire. For this fly I have used wire I have doubled and twisted. I like the effect of the twists but if you don't then use thicker wire. Then form a nicely tapering under body that you will wind the wire over.
[image]

Wind the wire over the thread under body in touching turns. See why I like the twisted wire now?
[image]

Tie off the wire and twist it until it breaks. Then tie in a strip of pearl tinsel to the top of the hook shank and a single strand of peacock herl to the underside of the hook, both just in front of the wire body.
For mine I am using dyed black peacock herl. I don't know if it makes much difference. Would you have even spotted it if I hadn't said? The reason for only one strand is that it produces a "fuller" looking body than a rope does.
[image]

Wind the peacock forward to the bead and tie off
[image]

Pull the pearl tinsel forward over the peacock and tie in. The thread will pull into the recess in the bead.
[image]

Tie in a couple more biots to form legs. One to either side I use the same technique as for the tail. Trim out the butts.
[image]

Whip finish. Pull tight and the thread will again drop into the bead recess. Trim out the thread.
[image]

Mix up a little epoxy. (If you are doing several leave this stage and do them all together) Apply a band of epoxy across the peacock and pearl tinsel from wire to bead.
The finished Copper John
[image]

Cheers,
Alan.

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tevion
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Re: Copper John
« Reply #1 on Apr 10, 2006, 4:00pm »

thanks for the four step by steps alan you make it seem much easier to follow than any thing else I have seen.
joe

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Sewinman
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Re: Copper John
« Reply #2 on Apr 10, 2006, 4:29pm »

Interesting method Alan and amazing pics!

Do you not think you are losing out on weight with your method? In the traditional tying there is a lead wrap stuffed under the bead and the copper wire goes all the way to the bead.

There is also a layer of thin skin tied after the flashabou?

Why not the partridge legs?

Could one weave two different coloured wires?

I doubt the trout know, though!

Best,

M

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Grand Slam 2005, 1978,1976,1971,1952,1950,1911,1909,1908

I went out to the hazel wood,
Because a fire was in my head,
I cut and peeled a hazel wand,
And hooked a berry to a thread;
And when white moths were on the wing,
And moth-like stars were flickering out,
I dropped the berry in a stream,
And caught a little silver trout.

AlanB
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I was once told that salmon fishing is like sex. Well if it is I'm doing one of them wrong.

Joined: Jun 2003
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Posts: 1,387
Location: In Exile in West Yorks.

Re: Copper John
« Reply #3 on Apr 13, 2006, 1:25pm »

Hi SM,
Yes the weight could be more. I think I mentioned this.
I haven't bothered with the thin skin as once the epoxy is on it makes no (or very little) difference.
For the sizes I use this fly the partridge legs are very short and it makes the tying thread head over large.
Normally I only tie this in size 16 and smaller as a nymph to dangle below a dry fly. A little simplification is usually needed in smaller sizes.

Cheers
Alan.

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Sewinman
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Re: Copper John
« Reply #4 on Apr 13, 2006, 1:52pm »

Hi Alan,

I agree actually. Having tied it the traditional way I have found the head has got very bulky and it is difficult to make the whip finish stay where it should be and not slip over the bead. I have found pink flashabou looks much better.

What I would love to do is mix green and red wire.

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